Story
The landscape of sake, for the world and for the next generation.
Sake breweries, where even a hundred-year-old house is still called young, have long been industries of geographic and historical importance to their regions, playing a part in Shinto rituals, weddings, funerals and many other moments of life. Sake organically connects a region's valuable assets, from its food culture and festivals to its traditional crafts. In 2024, "traditional sake-making" was inscribed on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Yet sake shipments have fallen from a peak of 1.77 million kL in fiscal 1973 to 390,000 kL in fiscal 2023, less than a third. The number of licensed sake production sites has also dropped from a peak of 4,073 to 1,544. Over the long run, breweries have disappeared at a pace of three a month. When a brewery is lost, the culture and history of its region are lost with it.
Even so, sake is a product with great latent opportunity: meeting other fields in big cities can raise both its value and its price. When a brand gains value in the city and its market grows, that value flows back to the brewery's home region, creating tourism and jobs, and the brewery becomes the heart of a community that supports the region.
* Shipments are taxable removals of seishu (sake) from the National Tax Agency's "Sake no Shiori" (July 2025). Licensed seishu production sites are from the National Tax Agency Statistical Yearbook (4,073 in 1956, 1,544 in fiscal 2021). The monthly decline is the average over this period.